BlackStack's Fashion Month Mixtape
featuring 14 runway collections by Black designers, with music to match the sartorial vibe
for Black folks, fashion and style are merely extensions of our innate vibrant essence. we can express so much with how we wear certain colors, the pattern of our braids, or where we wear our precious jewels — whether we adorn our teeth, hair, or hands, you can count on us to get creative!
over on my newsletter things i collected, i’ve previously curated the fashion month mixtape series, in which i review the runway collections, presentations, and lookbooks of the current season and compile the themes that resonate with me. i also include music that i’d imagine listening to while wearing the selected designs. to recap the most recent fashion month (Spring/Summer 2025), i wanted to bring this vibe to BlackStack and focus on Black designers whose work i enjoyed (because F.U.B.U!).
for this occasion, i tapped in with wardrobe stylist and writer extraordinaire
of . her poignant sentiments regarding fashion month amplify my own:Fashion is forever, all year round, 365. Still, September has been known for decades to be thee month that we truly celebrate and embrace all that fashion is from the magazine covers to fashion shows worldwide. Conversations about fashion and art can not leave out the mention of Black designers. Since the beginning of time, Black people have been the blueprints, the originators of art but especially fashion as we continuously use our creativity to make the world a better, cooler place, while simultaneously setting trends, and making jaws drop. When Shanté reached out to collaborate on this piece, it was a no-brainer and my mind ran with ideas of who to discuss. These designers I highlight are just a few of the hundreds — thousands — who are making their mark and creating their own unique paths within an industry that often tries to hide or exclude us.
together, we scoured collections from the major fashion cities and each picked seven designers whose looks made us take a second glance.1 read on as we take turns musing about our picks, and be sure to enjoy the tunes we selected to take the inspiration to the next level!
Andrea Iyamah
A huge part of being a fashion stylist is finding and researching brands. You pay attention to what people are wearing, what’s trending, and what designers and brands post on social media. Spending hours on sites like Up Next Designer, Vogue Runway, and Spotlight Time is normal. In 2019, as a lead stylist assistant to a celebrity stylist, I was introduced to Andrea Iyamah, a Nigerian swim and ready-to-wear brand designed by Dumebi Andrea Iyamah. Instantly, I loved the pieces because they felt very feminine and also super chic. I bought the Mulan bikini when I went to Hawaii, and let me just say, it was so cozy. I felt and looked phenomenal laid out on the beach and frolicking in the water.
When Andrea Iyamah’s FW24 collection was released last month, I knew some beautiful pieces would be included, and I was right; They never disappoint! This collection is filled with earth tones, lots of pumpkin, berry, and olive, with rich undertones. In my eyes, Andrea Iyamah's pieces are considered elevated classics. Going to brunch? You have a work meeting? Maybe a dinner date? There is always lots of versatility throughout the collection and this one for the current fall season we are in the midst of is no different. Bodysuits can be a pain when you have to use the restroom but the beautiful Kava print and chic silhouette of Mati, make those few minutes all worth it. The pants are always tall girl-friendly (thank you, thank you), and can be worn with different tops. I can’t wait to add a few of Andrea Iyamah’s pieces to my fall and winter wardrobe! — Amirah
Bohn Jsell
I’ve had the pleasure of pulling pieces for my clients from Bohn Jsell and last month they released “PEREGRINATE”, their SS25 collection. Whenever I see vibrant colors, cool prints/patterns, and beautiful styles, my attention has already been caught! Bohn Jsell is a destination-wear brand, that specializes in luxury Bohemian-style pieces that are great for different occasions especially a whimsical vacation or a night out filled with good vibes. It is now available for pre-order. Bold, fun, and confident is how I would describe this collection. If this describes your personal style, and/or you’re a girlie who loves a dress with a good neckline that’ll break someone's neck when they see you enter the room or you live for a good set that is comfy but still shows those curves... this is for you! There are quite a few pieces I can already see some of my clients in. I’m excited to see more people tap into Bohn Jsell. — Amirah
Diotima
ever since i first laid eyes on a fringed woven Diotima piece, i’ve been enthralled by the brand’s romantic vacation-ready designs. for her “Déjà Vu” collection, designer Rachel Scott proved that the brand isn’t going anywhere anytime soon. her fresh takes on crochet, monochromatic styling, and suit pairing solidified Diotima as one to continue watching.
head-turning looks like the ones displayed during the SS25 season signify femme power to me, so i’m pairing this collection with two Little Simz x Cleo Sol collabs. i would also be remiss not to talk about the outstanding beauty moment that is the bright eyelashes in pops of white and red. — Shanté
Ferragamo
since 2022, British designer Maximilian Davis has been the creative director of the legendary Ferragamo fashion house. in my opinion, the electric yet refined sensuality he previously displayed for Fashion East has truly reinvigorated and enlivened the Ferragamo brand. for SS25, the designer took a dive into the Italian brand’s archive to put a twist on many classic motifs.
from sculptural leather dresses to relaxed trench coats, this collection is for the one who’s standing on business — the one who’s got somewhere to be! it’s an intriguing mix of worn-in leisure, statement formal wear, an office day-to-night vibe, and balletcore all at once; the latter is most notably evident in the pairing of ribbon espadrille sandals with earth-toned wrap tops.
recommended listening: cross-cultural influence is the theme here as music by French-Senegalese singer anaiis graces my headphones. like Davis, she has ties to London. — Shanté
Francesca Lake
the wanderlust is real with Francesca Lake’s most recent collection for London Fashion Week. the Jamaican designer paid homage to her homeland with a dreamy visual full of statement pieces! i have a lot of favorite moments from the above video, but the muted tones, rust-colored raffia, and large chrome bauble earrings specifically stopped me in my tracks. the white babydoll dress with the laced-up biker shorts and tied-up ribbon flats evoked a similar sensation.
fittingly, these designs would pair well with Fousheé’s Pointy Heights album, another artistic ode to Jamaica. — Shanté
Hanifa
Every time a new Hanifa collection comes out, I’m blown away. I honestly don’t think there’s been a time yet when I didn’t feel like I needed every single piece in my closet. Hanifa always has pieces for any and every woman. It’s so funny because when Shanté and I were discussing which brands/designers we’d be writing about, she said she had a feeling that I would choose Hanifa, which made me giggle. After all, I truly am a Hanifa girlie at heart. I wore the Lola Gown to my friend’s wedding a few years ago and truly felt (and looked) phenomenal. The quality was superb, and as my funds continue to grow and flourish, I’ll be adding more Hanifa to my wardrobe. This Resort collection is so fun, filled with sequins, fringe, and bold colors. All of these pieces, I can see being worn on an island vacation, hanging out, having a good ol’ time with my girls or my man. — Amirah
LaQuan Smith
Sensual, glamorous, and sexy are the best words I can use to describe LaQuan Smith’s collection, especially this SS25, which debuted during NYFW. Ugh, it’s just so perfect! For a while now, I have been a huge fan of LaQuan Smith. He really understands how to add the right amount of nightlife, luxury, and “Ima make shake the room when I walk in” energy into each collection. I always want to see more of his pieces on red carpets and at award shows. Yesterday, I saw Victoria Monét in one of his dresses and was overjoyed. There are so many women, especially Black women like JT, Megan Thee Stallion, and Cardi B, who I can see wearing his pieces and completely devouring them.
Two of my favorite things about this SS25 collection are the colors used and the silhouettes. From this collection, you can see that he included some trench/utilitarian style pieces, but in a flirty, fun way. I love it! I’m always here to show some skin because, what did Beyonce say? “If you got it, flaunt it!” — Amirah
MAINS London
I, of course, know who Skepta is, but I was just recently introduced to MAINS this year. The brand first launched back in 2017 and made its return last month with Season Two (SS25). This collection features a beautiful blend of luxury sportswear and elevated preppy styles, which I’ll always thoroughly enjoy! With Skepta being a rapper, the influence of hip-hop style was evident, but there were also nods to the 90s/early 2000s trends such as statement fuzzy hats and oversized moments. I also noticed letterman jackets, school kid-type silhouettes, and even lots of embroidery. — Amirah
Martine Rose
When I think about streetwear, Martine Rose is one of the first brands that comes to mind. The brand often incorporates leather, denim, and utilitarian pieces, as well as a fly, standout suiting which is something I absolutely love with this collection. However, what truly sets Martine Rose apart from other streetwear brands is the storytelling and theme behind each collection that we get consistently. A few months ago, I had the opportunity to attend an almost two-hour-long Zoom meeting hosted by Office Hours NYC with the one and only Martine Rose herself. I’ve never signed up to attend anything so quickly in all my life.
My hands were running a mile per minute as I took notes about her journey, starting a fashion label, and the ups and downs, while also deeply absorbing every single that she discussed with us. Martine was super personable, honestly answering questions, and her experiences as a human, an artist, and a woman in this industry felt so relatable. At the top of September, a collaboration between Martine Rose and Supreme happened and just last week, a collaboration with Clarks went live. I am always excited to see Martine Rose’s intentional and unique designs within her own brand, as well as when she’s working with others. — Amirah
Romeo Hunte
hmm, what doesn’t this collection have? from the patchwork one-legged denim to the glittery jorts, the tailored micro-shorts to the f*ck a** bobs, Romeo Hunte offered a unique, urban collection that channeled his hometown. as described toVogue: “It’s very Brooklyn, cool, early-’90s kid, with a twist,” Hunte said.
this collection also served up facets of rocker style, so i’ve chosen Yves Tumor and N.E.R.D as the background music. — Shanté
Sergio Hudson
This SS25 collection from Sergio Hudson gives classic woman but is still very modern. I could see a corporate baddie, a woman who’s in and out of meetings in the office, who’s simple but yet still chic wearing these pieces. Wearing colors is so important to me, so I love the pastels. It adds a touch of fun, spring, and joy. The use of belts was very apparent throughout many of the looks in this collection. I remember reading his inspiration for this collection was from the 1967’s film, Valley of the Dolls. I also noticed a few peplum moments, which caught my eye because I used to love a peplum once upon a time.
These simple additions to shapes and styles bring excitement to the collection, and he always does it in such a sophisticated way. Also, the use of silk is *chef kiss* perfection. Sergio Hudson has worked with some of the top names in the celebrity world, like Janelle Monae, Michelle Obama, and Fantasia Barrino. He often works with Keke Palmer too, so I’m excited to see who’s going to be wearing what! — Amirah
Theophilio
during NYFW, designer Edvin Thompson of Theophilio honored his own past self by titling the show “Shaunie,” a nickname from his youth. channeling the timeframe he grew up in, Thompson’s designs are very turn-of-the-millennium with verifiable glimpses of the McBling era — honey, it’s giving sequins, silk, and animal print galore! one of my favorite looks was the leather top paired with the perforated leather shorts. so effortlessly cool and sleek!
as for music, i’ve selected Gavin Turek’s latest album, Diva Of The People. it’s soulful, high-energy disco that perfectly matches the glitz and sheen of this collection. — Shanté
Tolu Coker
"OLAPEJU," the SS25 collection for London designer Tolu Coker, gave reverence to the designer’s mother and her British-Nigerian heritage. there was no shortage of stark patterns, coordinated sets, or strong contrast stitching on this runway, where whimsical 60s mod met an earthy 70s twist. personally, i need the chartreuse leather vest and pleated skirt set like yesterday (hat and boots included)!
next, my admiration for British talent continues with the following track by the London band Ezra Collective, featuring Olivia Dean (one of my favorite singers in recent years). — Shanté
Who Decides War
for their tenth NYFW collection, Ev Bravado and Téla D’Amore of Who Decides War combined Victorian-era opulence with texture-driven edginess and upcycled ingenuity.
notable moments include: decadent lacy ruffles, embroidered leather courtesy of a Pelle Pelle collab, quilted pants, deconstructed hems, and a belted dress with buckles going all down the side.
relatedly, in the cover image for her latest EP, London singer Demae poses in the exact type of relaxed denim i’d want to see styled with elements of this SS25 collection. — Shanté
hope you enjoyed this special F.U.B.U. collaboration! which designer and/or look was your favorite this past season? whose collection did we miss? feel free to let us know in the comments.
the featured collections in this piece range from the seasons of Resort ‘24 to FW24 to SS25.
So happy to see my girl Francesca Lake mentioned!!
Baybeee I love this! I've been saving my coins for Hanifa but these other collections are too tempting. Wonderful piece 💛